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At
the beginning, painting with a needle has been developed
to reduce the use of gold yarn that was laid on the
fabric and maintain by small silk stitches. Time after
time, these silk yarns started to add some decorative
aspect to the gold braid cord.
Thus was born the technique called ‘Or nué’ that gave
the impression of a painting made with a needle in the
15th century. Italians and Flemish developed this
process to a very high level of refinement. In Great
Britain, the Anglicanum tell about embroidery of shadows
and lights. With the time, painting with a needle gets
rid of its richness, relief and gold yarn.
At the end of the 18th century, the fashion for
naturalists leads drawing to more colour and lightness.
Flowers, birds, butterflies and characters patterns are
depicted with great details directly from observing the
nature. Silk is most of the time used. Therefore, in
Lyon and its area (South of France) no less than 20,000
professional embroiderers were counted. Embroidered
vests are the most representative of that fashion. This
painting with a needle used an infinity of silk yarns
shades. However, craftsmen used only very simple
stitches.
Nice embroidery is mostly due to irregular stitches that
encroach one other side by side. Stitches must follow
the shape of patterns, that is to say must change
constantly of direction to give the impression of
relief, light and shadow.
Needle painting has to be done on a support perfectly
stretched by a hoop or a rectangular embroidery frame
adapted to the work’s size. It is very fundamental to
embroider with only one thread of yarn whether it is
cotton yarn for embroidery (DMC mouliné spécial broder)
or silk, Alger silk…
Playing with colours is the fundamental part of painting
with a needle. Numerous colours are not needed as just
few colours can give a beautiful result. In fact with
just one colour it is possible to obtain an important
variety of shade, by the position of the thread, and the
stitch employed.
It is why, from the same drawing, each student makes its
own embroidered painting, different from the others.
Students are using colours of their choice; then
dexterity also makes works with different results.
Far from being annoying, this pastime makes each student
express him/herself. Experimentation and persistence
make embroidery a pastime without creativity limits.
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